It seems that I've found my Pot-of-Gold. 10-6-B, 10-13-A, and 10-18-F. Simple, repeatable, good Loading, and it contributes to an excellent Longitudinal Pull feel. Better than Standard Wrist Action.
It seems that I've found my Pot-of-Gold. 10-6-B, 10-13-A, and 10-18-F. Simple, repeatable, good Loading, and it contributes to an excellent Longitudinal Pull feel. Better than Standard Wrist Action.
What Daryl is saying is...
Use the Turned (Right) Shoulder Plane and eliminate any Start Up Swivel in the Backstroke.
From there, delay the Release by keeping the Left Hand Palm Down (to the Plane) -- and the Right Hand Palm up -- through the Release Point and then Swivel into Impact.
Use the Turned (Right) Shoulder Plane and eliminate any Start Up Swivel in the Backstroke.
From there, delay the Release by keeping the Left Hand Palm Down (to the Plane) -- and the Right Hand Palm up -- through the Release Point and then Swivel into Impact.
Am I right, Daryl?
Quite Right. And 10-18-C #1 has fewer moving parts than a Start Up Swivel. Besides, the Downstroke Pre-Hinge Swivel on a Turned Shoulder Plane has more continuity while tracing a Straight Plane line. Especially compared to that of returning to an Elbow Plane from a Double Shift. These mechanics contribute to the Longitudinal Pull feeling that I've been missing rather than the 'yank Ye-O club around' feeling I've become accustomed to.
I say the 10-18-C-1 backstroke is indistinguishable from 10-18-A. The amount of true wrist rotation which is suppose to distinguish between the two is the same. The only difference is that 10-18-C-1 happens more gradually and 10-18-A more suddenly in the beginning of the stroke.
One piece of advice for those trying to apply this info to their own swing. Use the wrist action you're most comfortable with to keep the Clubshaft On Plane. I see so many people who are doing well, and then they learn about Standard Wrist Action (Start Up Swivel) and they start going under plane and all sorts of compensations start creeping in.
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tongzilla
Last edited by tongzilla : 07-10-2006 at 07:48 AM.
I say the 10-18-C-1 backstroke is indistinguishable from 10-18-A. The amount of true wrist rotation which is suppose to distinguish between the two is the same. The only difference is that 10-18-C-1 happens more gradually and 10-18-A more suddenly in the beginning of the stroke.
One piece of advice for those trying to apply this info to their own swing. Use the wrist action you're most comfortable with to keep the Clubshaft On Plane. I see so many people who are doing well, and then they learn about Standard Wrist Action (Start Up Swivel) and they start going under plane and all sorts of compensations start creeping in.
True - it can be very easy to turn too much and end up off/under plane. That said, there is a 'big' difference between the two (startup swivel vs none).
I tend to 'feel' this via my left shoulder and the clear feel of getting 'under' the shaft, while really feeling the 'line of the left arm/club/wristcock going 'UP' the plane.
The feel for that 'line' is the key benefit of the medicus 2000 IMO. The trick is getting the 'up plane' while not letting the clubhead get behind your hands in the startup.
The swinger's feel for the left arm flying wedge (loading the left wrist - 10-18-A), the hitter's feel for the right arm flying wedge (loading the right elbow - 10-18-C)
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"Support the On Plane Swinging Force in Balance"
"we have no friends, we have no enemies, we have only teachers"
Simplicity buffs, see 5-0, 1-L, 2-0 A and B 10-2-B, 4-D, 6B-1D, 6-B-3-0-1, 6-C-1, 6-E-2
Question: the subjects address position in the picture 10-6-B#1 shows the right wrist really uncocked. Is this required by the plane?
Regardless of Plane Angle, the Right Wrist is ideally held Level throughout the Stroke. The fact that the Wrist may appear Uncocked in 10-6-B #1 does not alter this Basic. It merely points to the fact that any photo in the book should be used as a check ONLY for the point under discussion and not those appearing incidentally (2-R).
And 10-6-B #1 refers only to the Turned Shoulder Plane Angle, not the Perpendicular alignment of the Right Wrist.
Study the Perpendicular Wrist Positions in 4-B-0/1/2/3. Especially study Photo 4-B-1. Level may be more "Uncocked" than you think!
Would it be fair to say that there is a greater range of motion from 'level' to 'fully cocked' than there is from 'level' to 'fully uncocked'? i.e. level is not 'halfway' between cocked and uncocked. Would apply to both right and left wrists.
Regardless of Plane Angle, the Right Wrist is ideally held Level throughout the Stroke. The fact that the Wrist may appear Uncocked in 10-6-B #1 does not alter this Basic. It merely points to the fact that any photo in the book should be used as a check ONLY for the point under discussion and not those appearing incidentally (2-R).
And 10-6-B #1 refers only to the Turned Shoulder Plane Angle, not the Perpendicular alignment of the Right Wrist.
Study the Perpendicular Wrist Positions in 4-B-0/1/2/3. Especially study Photo 4-B-1. Level may be more "Uncocked" than you think!
Thanks for clarifying. You're correct about 4-B-1, it looks un-cocked but I understand the relationship to level wrt the forefinger.